If you’re looking at a sunscreen label wondering what “photostable” means this article is for you.
Did you know your sunscreen contains UV filters that rapidly break down when exposed to sunlight? (Source: National Library of Medicine).
Deconstruct — Vitamin C Gel Sunscreen
A photostable sunscreen contains advanced UV filters that resist this degradation and maintain their SPF stability when exposed to UV.They give you more consistent and durable protection against UVB (burning rays) + UVA (ageing)
In a country where humidity is at an all time high, battling rising UV index, and sweat is a daily occurrence and pollution is unbeatable, choosing the right photostable sunscreen becomes imperative. Especially for those with oily and acne prone skin.
This article will guide you through:
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What photostable sunscreen means
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It’s safety concerns and uses, especially for those with oily skin
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Answers all your common questions to keep you protected for the Indian climate
Deconstruct — Oat Ceramide Gel Sunscreen
What Does Photostable Sunscreen Mean?
A sunscreen that maintains it’s effectiveness without degrading significantly immediately on UV exposure. It is a formula with advanced UV filters built to resist photodegradation - the process where active ingredients break down and lose their effectiveness due to exposure to UV light.
UV filters are essential in absorbing, reflecting or scattering the harmful UV rays of the sun, protecting your skin from sun damage (Source: Elchemy).
When UV filters absorb UV rays, they undergo chemical reactions & enter a high-energy excited state. Without a way to release this energy, the molecular structure collapses, causing it to degrade.This causes them to break down (photodegradation).
Sun Protection Factor(SPF) measures the strength of protection against UVB (burning) rays. While photostability measures how long the UV filters are able to maintain their efficacy upon exposure. (UVB+ UVA)
In simple terms, SPF tells you how much protection you’re getting. Photostability tells you how long that protection will last.
Some unstable filters, found in normal sunscreens, break easily. This reduces their ability to protect your skin from the harmful UV rays of the sun.
One common unstable filter is Avobenzone. It is widely used filter but studies show it is known to degrade upon sun exposure unless stabilised (International Journal of Scientific Reports) (Science Direct)
You can have SPF 50+ that can start degrading within an hour if the formula isn’t stable. SPF alone isn't enough. A photostable formula is imperative to ensure the sunscreen actually works for the duration it is on the skin.
Deconstruct — Gel Sunscreen for Oily Skin
Why Does Photostability Matter in Indian Weather?
The UV index in India is as high as ever, with some cities reportedly reaching levels of 8-11+ which is considered “very high” to “extreme,” especially during peak summer months. Protecting yourself from the sun is no longer a choice but a necessity.
India’s high humidity climate (often exceeding 70%) causes sunscreens to break down faster as sweat and oil break down traditional sunscreens and dilute them.
Heat also accelerates chemical breakdown of UV filters, as sebum oxidises with sun exposure causing break down ingredients
Pollution is also a major driver of oxidative stress on the skin. Free radicals or unstable molecules overwhelm the body’s antioxidants. Photostable sunscreens ensure long- lasting protection, preventing the sunscreen from breaking down into free radicals.
Here’s a small comparison
|
Factor |
Regular Sunscreen |
Photostable Sunscreen |
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UV breakdown |
Faster |
Slower |
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Protection duration |
Reduced |
Maintained |
|
Reapplication Frequency |
More Frequent |
Less Frequent + More Reliable |
Is Photostable Sunscreen Safe?
YES.
Photostable sunscreens are considered safe for daily use. Unlike traditional filters, which degrade with exposure to UV, photostable filters maintain their SPF and UVA protection for a longer duration giving you all the more protection from risks of skin cancer and ageing.
Remember, safety depends on
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Approved UV filters
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Proper ingredient concentration
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Non-comedogenic formulations
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Fragrance-free options for sensitive/reactive skin
A sunscreen can be photostable and still cause irritation if it does not contain the appropriate ingredients. Remember to choose a dermatologically tested and approved formula to give your skin the best protection.
Is Photostable Sunscreen Safe for Oily or Acne-Prone Skin?
Yes, photostable sunscreen is safe to use on oily or acne prone skin. In fact, better. Especially under intense heat and humidity, it is the best option for oily or acne prone skin.
Oily Skin produces excess sebum, which combined with high UV exposure, can degrade traditional filters in your normal sunscreen faster.
In hot humid conditions, sweat dilutes or washes away sunscreen faster. Photostable formulas, particularly water-resistant ones, are built to resist breakdown for longer periods of time caused due to sweat.
For oily or acne prone skin, opt for a lightweight, gel based formula that reduces oiliness and prevents breakouts.
In fact, some photostable sunscreens like Deconstruct’s Photostable Sunscreens (Gel-based) are engineered for oily or acne prone skin. They are formulated with 4 new-gen filters- Tinosorb S/M, Uvinul A plus/ T 150.
These new-gen filters are proven to resist degradation on UV exposure & non- comedogenic (prevent clogging of pores). They are lighter on the skin and suitable for daily use without leaving residue or a white- cast.
Why they work better for oily or acne prone skin
Lightweight, gel-based formulas work better, especially for oily or acne prone skin as they absorb faster, without leaving sticky residue on your skin which allows your skin to breathe and not cause breakouts.
Do Mineral Sunscreens Need to Be Photostable Too?
Mineral sunscreens are naturally photostable. Its active ingredients - Zinc oxide and titanium oxide do not break down and lose their effectiveness on UV exposure.
According to the FDA, Zinc oxide is referred to as the “gold-standard” for it’s superior, broad-spectrum protection and high photostability.
Traditional chemical filters undergo a chemical reaction when they absorb UV rays and convert it into heat. Mineral filters reflect or scatter the UV rays. Since they do not rely on chemical reactions, they are more stable and less prone to “burn-out,” meaning, they can protect your skin for longer. (Source: IJDVL).
Even though mineral filters are more stable, overall formulation still matters for effective protection. If the minerals are not evenly dispersed, they can leave clumps on the skin and cause invisible holes where the sun can still burn you.
Companies now sell hybrid sunscreens - mineral and chemical filters in a single product.
Mineral filters can help stabilise less stable chemical filters. By mixing filters brands can build lightweight and spread easily without clumping. Source- MD Anderson Cancer Centre
Is Photostable Sunscreen Necessary for Indian Weather or High-UV Regions?
Yes. It is absolutely necessary.
The UV Index is a scale ranging from 0-11+ that measures sun damage on the skin.
Normal sunscreens can lose up to 90% of it’s effectiveness within just two hours of UV exposure.
In High altitude regions, the atmosphere is thinner, thus allowing more UV penetration. Photostable sunscreens allow for more consistent & durable protection throughout the day.
Coastal humidity can cause normal sunscreens to slide off or wear easily. Photostable formulas are water-resistant and have stronger grip on your skin offering longer protection.
When it’s especially necessary:
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Frequent commutes or outdoor activity
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Oily or acne prone skin
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Oily skin
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Hyperpigmentation
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Melasma- prone skin
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Acne marks
How to Check if a Sunscreen is Photostable?
A quick checklist:
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Check for stabilised Avobenzone: Avobenzone is a highly unstable filter on it’s own, needing filters to stabilise it.
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Look for advanced new-gen filters: Tinosorb S/M.
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Zinc Oxide %: Provides true broad-spectrum coverage. Look for a concentration of 20-25%
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Broad spectrum label: This ensures it has been tested against UVA+UVB rays.
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PA rating: Look for PA+++ or PA++++ . The higher the “+” the more protection against UVA.
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Gel Texture for oily skin: For oily or acne prone skin, ensure the formula is lightweight & gel based.
Common Myths About Photostable Sunscreen
Myth: SPF 50 means stable
False. High SPF does not ensure long–lasting stability. It measures protection against UVB and not how long the filter lasts. A product can have high SPF but still have unstable filters. Example, Avobenzone
Myth: Mineral doesn’t need reapplication
False. While mineral filters (Zinc/Titanium) remain stable for longer, it is still recommended to reapply your photostable sunscreen every 2 hours.
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Myth: All gel sunscreens are photostable
False. Gel refers to only the texture of the product, not the active ingredients used in it. Check for new-gen filters in the ingredients for best protection.
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Myth: Photostable means waterproof
False. Photostable means a sunscreen’s ability to resist UV, whereas water- resistance refers to the product’s ability to resist moisture breakdown. A photostable sunscreen can break down as soon as you come in contact with sweat or water. Check the label for water resistance (up to 40-80 minutes).
There is also no such thing as water-proof. Only water-resistance.
Final Verdict: Should You Choose Photostable Sunscreen in India?
Yes, you need photostable sunscreen, especially in an Indian climate that experiences high solar radiation and humidity levels throughout the year. If you have oily or acne prone skin, it is all the more necessary to use photostable sunscreen. If you live in higher altitude regions or coastal areas it is an absolute must, as damage to your skin is more rapid.
As for choosing the right formula, especially for oily or acne-prone skin,
A dermatologically tested and approved non comedogenic, broad-spectrum, gel-based photostable sunscreen will be perfect for daily outdoor activity, intense workouts without clogging your pores and feeling heavy on your skin, offering reliable protection in Indian climate.
FAQs
Is photostable sunscreen safe?
Yes, photostable sunscreen is deemed safe to use and recommended for daily use.
Is photostable sunscreen better for oily or acne-prone skin?
Yes. They are often better for oily or acne-prone skin as they are non- comedogenic and regulate sebum-production.
Do mineral sunscreens need to be photostable too?
Mineral filters (zinc & titanium) are naturally photostable and offer broad-spectrum protection
Is photostable sunscreen necessary for Indian weather or high-UV regions?
Photostable sunscreens are a must, especially for high UV regions like India as normal sunscreens can lose up to 90% of their effectiveness within just two hours. Photostable sunscreens are built to resist degradation.
