A few years back, the sunscreen industry suddenly started catching a lot of attention. Growing up, we all knew sunscreen was important, but didn't put much thought around it and mostly skipped it. The concerns around sunscreen began when the topic of skin cancer and photoaging became a hot topic. But the question is, why are ultraviolet rays so harmful? In recent trends, collagen is heavily marketed, but it is something which already exists in our body, so what's the fuss? In this article, we decode the science around what goes underneath the skin and why some products are worth it and some are not.
What Is Collagen?
In recent trends, collagen is one of the most heavily marketed ingredients, but what exactly is it? Collagen is the main structural protein produced naturally by the body and makes up about 30% of the body's total protein. To put it simply, it is the glue that holds the skin, bones, tendons, and muscles together. Collagen fibres form a structural framework which provides the skin with elasticity and firmness. It provides the skin with strength and support and is also essentially what helps the skin heal from wounds.
Interestingly, collagen reduces by up to 1% every year starting around your mid to late twenties, which is also why you start observing fine lines around that time. So if you are someone who is yet to hit your twenties, a collagen-heavy product is probably not needed in your cart just yet. PubMed
What Is Photoaging?
Photoaging is the premature ageing of the skin caused by repeated, long-term exposure to UV radiation. According to dermatology, around 80–90% of facial skin ageing is due to photoaging rather than chronological ageing. This is because repeated exposure to the sun causes damage to the molecular structure of the skin. UV exposure leads to oxidative stress (ROS), which triggers pathways that produce enzymes that degrade collagen and break down the collagen framework. When we use sunscreen, we are not merely protecting the skin from UV-induced damage but providing a protective layer against photoaging. PubMed
Which UV Rays Cause Collagen Damage?
There Are Essentially Three Types of UV Rays: UVA, UVB and UVC
UVC gets absorbed by the atmosphere, so we are left with UVA and UVB.
Protection Against Both UVA and UVB Rays
You must have seen the line "protection against both UVA and UVB rays" on every sunscreen bottle, but what does this mean? Let's decode.
UVA
UVA has a wavelength of 320–400 nanometres and is particularly important in photoaging because its longer wavelengths allow it to penetrate deeper into the skin. It can contribute to photoaging, pigmentation, and oxidative stress. Chronic exposure to UVA can damage the cellular matrix and break down the collagen framework, contributing to premature ageing and skin damage.
UVB
UVB has a wavelength of 280–320 nanometres. It triggers sunburn, DNA damage, tanning, and can contribute to skin cancer. Despite having a shorter wavelength, it has higher photon energy and is absorbed quickly by the epidermis, which is why you notice immediate tanning after a beach trip or a whole day outdoors.
Bonus: To put it simply, both of them are dangerous. UVA penetrates deeper and contributes significantly to premature ageing. UVB causes burning of the skin and DNA damage, leading to sunburn and tanning. Both contribute to photoaging and carcinogenesis. PubMed
How Does UV Exposure Actually Break Down Collagen?
Let's get back to the core of the topic—the science behind the whole process in a step-by-step method.
1. UV Exposure Generates Oxidative Stress
By now we know what UVA and UVB mean and understand that both are dangerous for the skin. UVA penetrates deeper into the skin and is particularly important for photoaging. Ultraviolet radiation from the environment triggers the formation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), which leads to oxidative stress. Our skin naturally produces a certain level of ROS and has antioxidant systems to control them, but UV exposure triggers more ROS production and creates an excess of oxidative stress. PubMed Central
2. UV Activates Cellular Signalling
That oxidative stress doesn't just sit there. It activates a group of intracellular signalling pathways called MAPK (Mitogen-Activated Protein Kinases) inside skin cells that are directly involved in the photoaging process. MAPK activates AP-1 (Activator Protein-1), a signalling protein that acts like a switch for genes and changes cell expression. Basically, it tells your cells to start producing enzymes responsible for collagen degradation. PubMed Central
3. UV Increases MMPs
MMPs or Matrix Metalloproteinases are enzymes involved in breaking down components of the extracellular matrix (ECM). MMPs include MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9.
MMP-1 is essentially a collagen-breaking enzyme and is responsible for breaking down type I and type III collagen and is also associated with reduced collagen production. PubMed Central
4. Collagen Becomes Fragmented and Disorganized
With MMP activity elevated, existing collagen in the dermis doesn't just disappear; it becomes fragmented and structurally disorganized. Instead of the tightly woven, organized network that gives young skin its firmness, repeated UV exposure leaves behind a more broken-down, less structurally sound version of that same network. PubMed Central
5. Normal Collagen Maintenance Is Disrupted
The fragmented framework affects signalling pathways responsible for regulating collagen production by dermal fibroblasts. As a result, fibroblasts become less responsive to TGF-β signalling and produce less type I procollagen. Photoaging isn't only about faster breakdown; it also involves changes to how new collagen gets produced and remodelled in the first place. PubMed Central
What Are MMPs and Why Do They Matter for Skin Ageing?
MMPs or Matrix Metalloproteinases aren't inherently harmful. They play a normal, necessary role in remodelling the extracellular matrix as part of everyday skin turnover and repair. The problem arises when UV exposure drives their activity well beyond that normal baseline. Excessive, UV-driven MMP activity tips the balance toward more collagen breakdown than your skin can keep up with rebuilding. Over repeated exposure, that imbalance gradually reshapes skin structure toward a more aged appearance.
Can UV Damage Collagen Without Causing Sunburn?
Sunburns are triggered primarily by UVB radiation, which has higher photon energy and leaves an immediate effect on the skin. Photoaging is linked to cumulative UV exposure over time and is strongly associated with UVA radiation, which penetrates deeper into the skin and accumulates over time. Both UVA and UVB are dangerous in their own ways. So, to answer the question, UV radiation can damage collagen without leaving visible inflammation or redness from sunburn.
Can Sunscreen Help Protect Collagen?
Sunscreen works by reducing the amount of UV radiation that reaches your skin in the first place, which directly limits how much oxidative stress and MMP activation gets triggered. Broad-spectrum protection matters specifically because it addresses both UVA and UVB. Given that both wavelengths contribute to collagen damage through different mechanisms, covering just one leaves a real gap. Consistent, daily use is what actually limits cumulative UV exposure over months and years, which is the timescale on which photoaging operates.
How Can You Protect Your Collagen From UV Damage?
When your skin is constantly exposed to UV rays, it creates reactive oxidative stress (ROS), which further triggers intracellular signalling pathways that create enzymes to degrade collagen. UV triggers photoaging. What helps alongside a broad-spectrum SPF sunscreen is using topical antioxidant serums such as Vitamin C, Ferulic Acid, and Vitamin E, which can help neutralise oxidative damage. That being said, a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 50 PA++++ that protects against both UVA and UVB rays is the more important habit. PubMed
Deconstruct 10% Vitamin C Sunscreen
Deconstruct 10% Vitamin C Sunscreen
Formulated With 10% 3-O-Ethyl L-Ascorbic Acid, 0.5% Ferulic Acid and 0.5% Centella Asiatica Extract
Uses Liposomal Technology as a Delivery System
Liposomal technology is used as a delivery system to help deliver the active ingredient into the skin.
Liposomal technology is designed to improve the delivery of Vitamin C within the formulation.
Vitamin C Targets Dull and Uneven Skin Tone
Vitamin C targets dull and uneven skin tone and promotes collagen synthesis while also providing antioxidant protection against free radicals.
10% Vitamin C
10% Vitamin C is used in the formulation to support effective results.
Ferulic Acid and Centella Asiatica Extract
0.5% Ferulic Acid is included to support the stability of the formula, while 0.5% Centella Asiatica Extract helps soothe the skin.
FAQs
How Does UVA Break Down Collagen?
UVA triggers oxidative and cellular pathways that increase collagen-degrading enzymes and can also interfere with new collagen production. This contributes to the visible signs of photoaging over time.
What Are MMPs and How Do They Affect Collagen?
MMPs or Matrix Metalloproteinases are enzymes that normally remodel the extracellular matrix. UV-driven MMP activity beyond normal levels can degrade collagen faster than skin can rebuild it, contributing to photoaging.
Can UV Damage Collagen Without Causing Sunburn?
Yes. Photoaging results from cumulative UV exposure over time and doesn't require visible sunburn. Chronic low-level exposure can contribute to skin changes before any burning appears.
Does UVB Damage Collagen Too?
Yes. Alongside its stronger association with sunburn and DNA damage, UVB also contributes to cumulative photodamage, working alongside UVA.
Does Sun Exposure Damage Elastin?
Yes. UV exposure affects elastin as well as collagen. Both are structural proteins in the extracellular matrix and can be affected by the oxidative stress and enzymatic activity triggered by UV exposure.
Can Sunscreen Help Prevent Collagen Breakdown?
Yes. By reducing the amount of UV radiation reaching the skin, sunscreen limits the oxidative stress and MMP activation that drive collagen degradation, making it an important preventive tool.
Can Sunscreen Reverse Existing Sun Damage?
Not completely. Sunscreen cannot erase existing sun damage, but because of its photoprotective nature, it can help prevent further damage and give the skin an opportunity to repair some reversible changes.
Does SPF 50 Help Protect Against Photoaging?
Yes. SPF 50 provides high-level UVB protection, while broad-spectrum protection helps address UVA exposure as well. Consistent use can help limit UV-related photoaging and oxidative damage.
Why Does Repeated Sun Exposure Cause Wrinkles?
Repeated exposure drives ongoing oxidative stress and MMP activity, which can fragment and disorganize collagen over time. This reduces structural support in the skin and contributes to visible fine lines and wrinkles.
Can Daily Sunscreen Use Help Slow Photoaging?
Yes. Consistent use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen helps reduce UVA and UVB exposure, which can limit the cumulative UV damage associated with photoaging.
Conclusion
To bring everything under one umbrella, we can conclude in this manner. Collagen is the protein structure which allows the skin to remain firm and elastic. Chronic UV exposure promotes collagen loss through two interconnected mechanisms: it activates ROS-dependent signalling that increases MMP-mediated degradation of existing collagen, while simultaneously impairing TGF-β/SMAD signalling and reducing new collagen synthesis.
The very first step towards protection against photoaging begins with consistent sun protection. The Deconstruct Vitamin C Gel Sunscreen is formulated with new-generation UV filters and is non-comedogenic. It provides protection against UVA and UVB radiation and is formulated with a science-backed approach.