If you’ve delved into the world of sunscreens, you definitely would’ve read about UV filters in them. If you’re wondering how they work to protect your skin, sunscreen filters are the active ingredients in sunscreens that protect your skin from the harmful effects of UV damage. Let’s be honest, now more than ever, shopping for the right SPF feels a bit like reading a chemistry label. Here’s the thing, not all sunscreen filters are created equal. Modern sunscreen formulas now have new-gen filters that have changed the game when it comes to UV protection.
In this dermatologist-approved blog we help you understand how these UV filters work, how new-gen filters differ from the traditional ones, and help address common misconceptions regarding the newer and older filters.
What Do We Mean by “Old” and “New” Sunscreen Filters?
The terms “old” and “new” gen filters come from the different generations in active ingredients used in sunscreens. The most fundamental difference between the two is the molecular structure, their photostability (ability to not degrade under sunlight), how they feel on your skin and how likely they are in causing irritation.
Older / Established Filters
- Avobenzone
- Octinoxate
- Octisalate
- Oxybenzone
- Homosalate
Newer-Generation Filters
Examples:
- DHHB
- EHT
- BEMT
- MBBT
Before we pit these older and newer generation filters against each other, let’s clear up one common misconception. In the world of skincare science, newer filters doesn't automatically mean better, and older doesn't automatically mean outdated or unsafe. Global regulatory bodies like the SCCS in Europe, FDA in the US, and CDSCO in India, are constantly regulating SPF filters, with the newest landmark decision, from the US Food and Drug Administration, recognising Bemotrizinol (BEMT) as a generally safe and effective(GRASE) organic UV filter after decades.
The new UV filters were not invented because the old ones became dangerous, they were made to solve everyday headaches like white cast, greasy textures and daily wear discomfort. A well formulated sunscreen can protect your skin just as well.
Old vs New UV Filters: What's Actually Different?
| Factor | Established Filters | Newer-Generation Filters |
|---|---|---|
| UVA coverage | Varies by filter | More options for UVA coverage |
| UVB coverage | Strong established options | Highly efficient newer options |
| Photostability | Varies | Several newer filters are highly photostable (do not degrade as easy under sunlight) |
| Filter combinations | Widely used | More formulation possibilities |
| Long-UVA coverage | Depends on combination | Newer options expand coverage |
| Formulation flexibility | Formula-dependent | Can offer additional formulation options |
Old filters: They are smaller in molecular size, and older filters like avobenzone, act as a sponge that fills up fast, and degrade quickly under sun exposure.
New filters: They are built for higher stability, are larger in molecular size, engineered to not degrade as easily under UV exposure. Especially in India where UV indexes are high, new filters are designed to provide you consistent UV protection.
UVA Protection: Where Newer Filters Can Make a Difference
According to the World Health Organisation, UV radiation is predominantly of two types. UVB and UVA.
UVA has a stronger wavelength, penetrates deeper and causes long term cellular DNA, sun damage.
- UVA is broader than UVB.
- Different filters cover different portions of UVA.
- Newer filters have expanded the options available for UVA protection.
One of the biggest developments in sunscreen technology is having more options for building broad and long-UVA coverage.
Photostability: Are Newer Filters More Stable in Sunlight?
In sunscreen formulations, photostability refers to how much your sunscreen filters resist breaking down under UV exposure. According to the International Research Journal of Pharmacy, it is the breakdown of active molecules caused by ultraviolet radiation.
How filters work
- When filters absorb UV light, they enter into an ‘excited’ chemical state. To protect your skin from it, it converts it into harmless heat, releasing it safely.
- When your filters are stable, they come back down from this excited state, ready to absorb more UV rays and do the same cycle a number of times without breaking down.
Photostability varies by individual filter and formulation, so the relevant comparison is between specific filters. not entire generations.
Older filters like avobenzone, were used globally for UVA protection. However, it was notoriously unstable. Within just one hour of sitting in direct sunlight, it could lose up to 50% of its efficacy within one hour of exposure, and up to 90% with prolonged exposure (National Library of Medicine).
Newer filters like BEMT, MBBT and DHHB were built to help solve this problem. They can withstand prolonged exposure without degrading as easily under the brutal Indian sun, without losing their chemical integrity.
Do Newer Filters Actually Make Sunscreen Lighter?
New-gen filters do significantly make sunscreens more lighter, less greasier and more comfortable, but it is not the only factor. So, if you’re looking for a sunscreen with new filters just for it to be more lightweight, here’s what you should know.
- The whole formula matters: a UV filter is one aspect of a complex recipe. Sunscreens are complex emulsions and even if you have new cutting edge filters but it’s mixed in a thick, greasier cream, the final product can still feel heavy and greasy on your face
- The true architects of texture are the supporting ingredients like solvents, film-formers and emulsifiers that heavily influence how it feels
New UV filters don’t do all the “heavy lifting” by themselves, the texture, the base formulation and supporting ingredients together help decide how lightweight a sunscreen is and how it feels on your skin.
Why Modern Sunscreens Often Combine Multiple UV Filters
If you look closely at the back of your sunscreen label, you’ll notice not just one, but even 3-4 UV filters. In skincare, the saying “team work makes the dream work,” holds true.
Modern sunscreens often combine a
UVA-focused filter + UVB-focused filter + broad-spectrum filter for a well-rounded protection factor.
Deconstruct Gel Sunscreen: An Example of a Modern Multi-Filter Formula
Modern sunscreen formulations now combine new-gen UV filters in their formulations, utilising 4 new generation filters to help achieve broad spectrum, well-rounded coverage.
The new-generation UV filters:
- MBBT
- DHHB
- BEMT
- EHT
It has a lightweight, non-greasy formulation with a matte-finish that provides photostable broad spectrum SPF 50 with PA++++ (UVA+UVB protection) without leaving a white cast or feeling heavy on your skin.
Why it Fits Into Your Routine
- Broad spectrum SPF protection
- SPF 50 and PA++++
- Photostable protection
- Lightweight texture
- No white cast
- Matte finish texture
Deconstruct Gel Sunscreen is an example of how multiple modern UV filters can be combined to build a broad-spectrum sunscreen system.
How to Choose the “Best” New-Generation Sunscreen
Choosing the best sunscreen should not just be based on the highest SPF number. Knowing how to choose the best sunscreen for you should be based on the texture, formula, highly photostable sunscreen filters, and mainly, one that suits your specific skin type.
Don't choose based only on:
- One filter
- “New-generation” wording
- Highest SPF number
- Long ingredient lists
Instead check for:
1. SPF
2. UVA protection
3. Broad-spectrum coverage
4. Filter combination
5. Photostability
6. Texture and wearability
7. How comfortable the texture feels on your skin during the day and with multiple reapplications
The Final Verdict
Remember, photostability is an individual chemical trait, not a generational one. And a filter’s ability changes entirely depending upon the formulation it’s in. When choosing your SPF formula, don’t just chase high SPF numbers. The best new-generation sunscreen isn't the one with the most advanced-sounding filter, either. It's the one with a well-designed, tested broad-spectrum filter system that provides the protection you need and has a texture you can apply consistently with comfortable, lightweight overall formula.
