Deconstructing Types of Acne: Causes and How to Treat Each Type

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IN THIS ARTICLE

Acne (Acne Vulgaris) is quite the common skin condition, happens when hair follicles become clogged with sebum (oil), dead cells, dirt and bacteria . Causing them to become inflamed and infected. When these pores are blocked, they form inflamed red lesions and lumps or pustules.  The primary drivers of acne include hormonal shifts, genetics and increased stress, sometimes even diet. One important thing, not all acne is the same. They mainly fall under two categories: 

  • Non- Inflammatory Acne (comedonal) 

  • Inflammatory Acne 

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In this guide, we help you understand the types of acne, what causes them to appear and how to specifically treat each type. Your skin needs tailored, ingredient-led care for it to thrive. Let’s dive in. 



What Are the Different Types of Acne?

Acne is not one-size- fits all. Proper treatment begins with identifying the specific type of acne, which falls under two categories


Non-Inflammatory Acne or Comedonal Acne 

  • Usually painless, non-inflammed blockages 

  • Occur closer to skin’s surface

  • Blackheads,whiteheads 


Inflammatory Acne 

  • Red, inflamed,swollen papules (red bumps) or pustules (pus-filled pimples or cysts caused due to infection. 


If you’re a skincare beginner, struggling with acne, refer to a dermatologist-approved blog to understand what causes acne before you dive into how to treat it. 


Non-Inflammatory Acne (Comedonal Acne)

Let’s take a closer look at non-inflammatory acne or comedonal acne. 


Types of Non-Inflammatory Acne

  • Blackheads (open comedones): They’re a form of mild acne formed due to the trapped dirt sebum and bacteria in the hair follicles which then become oxidised when exposed to air, giving them a black colour. They’re called open comedones because the skin remains exposed

  • Whiteheads (closed comedones): small white acne blemishes that appear when debris, dirt, sebum and bacteria accumulate and are trapped inside a sealed pore. Unlike blackheads, they’re closed at the surface.The debris is not exposed to air and remains whitish.



Feature 

Blackheads
(Open Comedones)

Whiteheads
(Closed Comedones)

Pore Status

Open at the surface.

Closed by a thin layer of skin.

Appearance

Flat or slightly raised black/dark dots.

Small, raised white or flesh-coloured bumps.

Cause of Color

Oxidation: Trapped oil and cells turn dark when exposed to air. It is not dirt.

Protected: Trapped material stays white/yellow because it isn't exposed to air.

Typical Areas

Common on the T-zone (nose, chin, forehead).

Can appear anywhere, often seen on the nose, face, back, and chest



Causes of Non-Inflammatory Acne

Let’s take a look at what causes non-inflammatory acne 

  • Excess oil (sebum production)

  • Dead skin cell buildup

  • Clogged pores

  • Improper cleansing 

  • Comedogenic products, meaning skincare products that end up clogging your pores


How to Treat Non-Inflammatory Acne

  • Gentle exfoliation (AHAs/BHAs) like Salicylic Acid (BHAs) and Glycolic Acid (AHAs)

  • Salicylic acid for pore cleaning

  • Retinoids for accelerating cell turnover, promoting skin renewal, preventing new blackheads,whiteheads from forming while also fading acne scars.

  • Non-comedogenic skincare that do not clog your pores 

  • Consistent cleansing routine is key to seeing visible results


Inflammatory Acne

Types of Inflammatory Acne

  • Papules: A small raised skin lesion or bump (less than 1 cm) that are solid to the touch and often conical in shape. They are not pus-filled and can be red,brown or purple.

  • Pustules: They are small pus-filled, blister-like bumps, surrounded by red and irritated skin caused by irritation, clogged pores and excess sebum production (Web MD).

  • Nodules: They’re abnormal rounded, large painful lumps of tissue that form under skin or organs, caused due to infection, chronic inflammation. They form deep within the dermis and 

  • Cysts: They’re a severe type of inflammatory acne, causing painful pus-filled pimples within the dermis, often lasting weeks or months. Cysts feel deep seated, knot or tender lump under the skin, often returning to the same spot. 


Causes of Inflammatory Acne

  • Bacterial growth (Cutibacterium acnes)

  • Hormonal fluctuations like puberty, menstrual cycles, stress and PCOS- related breakouts

  • Excess sebum (oil) production

  • Immune response causing redness & swelling

  • Stress and lifestyle triggers

How to Treat Inflammatory Acne

  • Benzoyl peroxide: antibacterial treatment 

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): helps with oi;-regulation, calming inflammation and reducing acne over time 

  • Retinoids: prevent clogged pores 

  • Prescription treatments: for severe and stubborn acne

  • Avoid picking or squeezing at your acne, it’ll only end up making your existing acne worse. 


Key Differences Between Inflammatory vs Non-Inflammatory Acne


Here’s a table for your easy reference 

Factor

Non-Inflammatory Acne

Inflammatory Acne

Appearance

Blackheads, whiteheads

Red, swollen, painful

Pain

No

Yes

Severity

Mild

Moderate to severe

Risk of scars

Low

High


General Skincare Tips for Acne-Prone Skin

If you struggle with acne prone skin, here are dermatologist- recommend tips to help you reduce your acne struggles, over time. 

  • Use gentle cleanser twice daily

  • Always wear sunscreen

  • Avoid over-exfoliation

  • Keep skincare simple and consistent

  • Choose non-comedogenic products


 When Should You See a Dermatologist?

Here are the signs your body is telling you you need more than just over the counter treatments: 

  • Persistent acne

  • Painful cystic acne

  • Acne leaving scars

  • No improvement with (OTC) over the counter treatments




Conclusion 

One of the biggest mistakes people make when it comes to acne, is treating it the same way. Without understanding the cause and types of acne, you cannot treat your acne the right way. Each acne type deserves different approaches. 


For non Inflammatory acne: such as blackheads, whiteheads, usually respond well to AHAs, BHAs like salicylic acid, glycolic acid to actively reduce acne. 


For inflammatory acne: such as stubborn cysts, pustules and papules, they require dedicated treatments and dermatologist-intervention and cystic acne treatment


Remember, your acne-riddled skin is sensitive and highly irritated already. Always use the right ingredients and well-formulated formulas, such as dermatologist-recommended ones from Deconstruct, that are proven to be highly gentle yet effective to your skin and focus on barrier-repair as well, to help target acne and reduce inflammation to promote overall healthier skin.  At the end of the day, the best acne treatment is one that works for your skin type, skin concern and type of acne while also supporting barrier repair, as long as you focus on consistency and patience rather than product hopping



FAQs

What are the types of acne? 

The main two types of acne are 

 Non- inflammatory (comedonal acne)-  blackheads,whiteheads and surface level. Unlike inflammatory acne, these are not tender, swollen or painful

Inflammatory -  red,swollen, pus-filled and inflamed. Like cystic acne, pustules,papules,etc. 



What is the best treatment for cystic acne? 

Cystic acne is deep, painful and highly inflammatory and need dedicated treatment 

  • Prescription retinoids (adapalene)

  • Benzoyl peroxide

  • Anti-inflammatory ingredients and a gentle non-comedogenic approach 

  • Dermatologist-guided treatments like Accutane

 


How long do acne treatments take to work? 

Acne targeted skincare treatments like AHAs (Glycolic acid) and BHAs (Salicylic acid) take anywhere around 4-6 weeks for visible results. Remember, consistency and patience is key, rather than aggressive treatments and constant product hopping when it comes to treating acne. 



How do I know which acne treatment is right for me? 

The best way to figure out how to treat your acne, it’s important to understand the type of acne you have. 

Non-inflammatory acne (blackheads and whiteheads) → focus on unclogging pores with Salicylic acid and Glycolic acid and niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Inflammatory acne (red painful, swollen acne) →  focus on antibacterial treatments, reducing inflammation and redness while also calming ingredients that soothe skin and support skin barrier. 

Always consult your dermatologists when acne becomes persistent and severe.