A few years back the Glycolic acid 7% toner from the brand Ordinary had taken the internet by surprise, with multiple influencers raving about the benefits of the ingredient and how it helped them in their journey. But in the year 2020 this brand did not exist in the Indian market. Now, the next question might be are Indian brands any better? Is the claim around this single ingredient all worth it? You see, glycolic acid is one of those ingredients which does more than just one thing, it can be used as a body care ingredient as well as a hair care ingredient and as a facial toner as well. But how does the active ingredient do it? This article is a study on this very topic.
WHAT IS GLYCOLIC ACID?
GLYCOLIC ACID
Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule in the AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy-Acid) family, which provides it with its small molecular weight allowing it to penetrate the skin deeper and faster when compared to other acids in the same family such as lactic acid and mandelic acid, making it a very essential ingredient in the skincare industry.
WHY IS IT USED IN TONERS?
Glycolic acid works as a surface-level exfoliant. It works by loosening the bonds holding dead skin cells together on the surface, helping clear that buildup away rather than letting it sit and accumulate. That's exactly why it shows up so often in exfoliating toner formulas specifically.
Note: Glycolic acid is an AHA which makes it a more water-soluble exfoliant, while Salicylic acid is a BHA, turning it into an oil-soluble exfoliant. While both work against oily skin and clogged pores, they still work differently and should not be used interchangeably.
For the fuller picture on how various toner ingredients compare, our guide on best toner ingredients for oily skin covers that ground in more depth than makes sense here.
HOW DOES GLYCOLIC ACID HELP OILY SKIN?
To assume glycolic acid is only beneficial for oily skin would be a wrong statement, glycolic acid is beneficial for pretty much every skin type because of the wide range of benefits it provides. The molecular structure of this AHA is water based, which allows it to gently exfoliate without dissolving oil (which is how BHA performs), instead it breaks the glue (desmosomes) which holds dead skin cells together and improves skin texture.
BENEFITS OF GLYCOLIC ACID
Source: National Library of Medicine
HELPS WITH SURFACE BUILDUP
Clearing away accumulated dead skin cells on the surface leaves skin looking smoother and less rough almost immediately, before anything deeper even gets addressed. (PubMed)
HELPS IMPROVE UNEVEN TEXTURE
Consistent, appropriately paced exfoliation over time can genuinely improve how rough or uneven skin looks and feels, smoothing out the surface irregularities that build up otherwise. (PubMed)
HELPS IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF DULL SKIN AND PORES
Glycolic acid doesn't shrink pores and it doesn't close them, pores are permanent structures that don't work that way. What exfoliation actually does is reduce surface buildup and congestion around and inside those pores and less congestion, this in turn improves the appearance of the pores and provides a more refined texture and radiant looking skin. (PubMed)
BOOSTS COLLAGEN PRODUCTION
At a concentration of 7%, it reaches the dermis to stimulate collagen production, improving firmness and softening fine lines. (PubMed)
ACTS AS A NATURAL HUMECTANT
Due to its molecular structure of a water base it does not act as a harsh exfoliant and instead draws moisture from the environment into the skin to boost hydration.
HELPS IN FADING DARK SPOTS AND POST ACNE-MARKS
Glycolic acid accelerates cellular turnover which lifts hyperpigmentation, sun damage, age spots and post-inflammatory marks faster. (Cleveland Clinic)
BENEFITS FOR THE BODY
- SMOOTHS BUMPY SKIN (KERATOSIS PILARIS)
- NATURAL BODY ODOR CONTROL
- PREVENTS & TREATS INGROWN HAIRS
BENEFITS FOR HAIRCARE
- CLEARS SCALP BUILDUP
- REDUCES DANDRUFF
- REDUCES ITCHY SCALP
DOES GLYCOLIC ACID ACTUALLY CONTROL OIL?
No, glycolic acid in itself does not control oil production on the surface of the skin, instead it controls the way oil behaves on your skin. This might sound a little confusing, to break it down we go back to the primary function of glycolic acid, which is the faster shedding of dead skin cells. Sebum gets mixed with dead skin cells, which then leads to clogged pores, congested skin and more oily and trapped skin. So, glycolic acid acts as a supporting ingredient because it removes the dead skin cells and thereby there is reduced sebum accumulation and more reduced oiliness on the skin surface.
GLYCOLIC ACID: WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
Glycolic acid is suitable for dry, normal, oily as well as combination skin type. This is because it is not a harsh exfoliant and has the base molecule as water, allowing it to absorb better while also acting as a natural humectant. Glycolic acid is beneficial in case of dullness, uneven skin texture, surface buildup, pigmentation and even photoageing related concerns. (PubMed)
GLYCOLIC ACID VS SALICYLIC ACID FOR OILY SKIN
| Main Concern | More Relevant Ingredient |
|---|---|
| Dullness | Glycolic acid |
| Uneven texture | Glycolic acid |
| Surface buildup | Glycolic acid |
| Blackheads | Salicylic acid |
| Clogged pores | Salicylic acid |
| Excess oil alone | Niacinamide, Salicylic acid |
Note: These two aren't interchangeable, despite how often they get grouped together as "exfoliating acids for oily skin." Glycolic acid works the surface, salicylic acid works inside the pore, different jobs, different results.
HOW TO USE A GLYCOLIC ACID TONER FOR OILY SKIN
The basic sequence: Cleanser → Glycolic Acid Toner → Serum → Moisturizer → Sunscreen.
THE BASIC 5-STEP ROUTINE
Cleanser → Toner → Serum → Moisturizer → Sunscreen.
THE 5-STEP GUIDE
1. Cleanse
Wash your face using a Gentle Cleanser for a minute or two.
2. Toner
While the skin is still damp, apply a layer of The Deconstruct 7% Glycolic Acid Toner using the spray bottle across the face.
3. Serum
Let the toner settle on the face for a minute and follow it up with your preferred serum as per your routine.
4. Moisturizer
Give your serum a minute to settle and apply a pea-sized amount of a lightweight moisturizer.
5. Sunscreen
Apply a layer of your sunscreen as the final step in your morning routine.
PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION
DECONSTRUCT EXFOLIATING 7% GLYCOLIC ACID TONER
- Formulated with 7% Glycolic acid, 3% Niacinamide, D-Panthenol and Ginseng root extract and other essential botanical extracts.
- 7% Glycolic acid (Alpha-Hydroxy-Acid) holds a low molecular weight and deeply exfoliates the skin surface, reduces pigmentation and speeds up the shedding of dead skin cells. (Source)
- 3% Niacinamide acts as a multi-functional benefit, provides barrier support, oil-control, hydration, reduced breakouts and anti-inflammatory properties.
- Uses Ginseng root extract and other botanical extracts blend that revitalizes skin, calms sensitivity, deeply hydrates, improves texture, and enhances natural radiance. (Source)
- Uses humectants such as Sodium PCA, D-Panthenol, Urea and so on which keeps the skin hydrated and supports skin barrier.
- Multi-benefit toner which can be used for multiple skin concerns and hair concerns such as dandruff, itchy scalp and so on.
- Useful for concerns such as pigmentation around the body, ingrown hair, dullness, sun damage, clogged pores and so on.
- Gentle, lightweight, water-based formulation which exfoliates, hydrates and protects the skin using a single formulation and absorbs quickly and does not irritate the skin.
- Recommended by dermatologists and backed by scientific research.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
IS GLYCOLIC ACID TONER GOOD FOR OILY SKIN?
Yes, glycolic acid is a suitable toner when it comes to oily skin, because it works particularly well for surface buildup and uneven texture which happens to be a common problem when dealing with oily skin.
DOES GLYCOLIC ACID CONTROL OIL?
Not directly. It's primarily an exfoliating ingredient, its benefit for oily skin comes from improving texture and buildup, not regulating sebum production.
CAN GLYCOLIC ACID HELP WITH THE APPEARANCE OF PORES?
Yes, indirectly, by reducing surface congestion around pores, which can make them look more refined, though it doesn't shrink or close pores themselves.
DOES GLYCOLIC ACID IMPROVE UNEVEN SKIN TEXTURE?
Yes, because its primary job is acting as a surface-exfoliant which allows faster shedding of dead skin cells, replacing it with newer cells reducing uneven skin tone and rough texture over time.
IS GLYCOLIC ACID BETTER THAN SALICYLIC ACID FOR OILY SKIN?
Both essentially target different concerns, salicylic acid (BHA) is more suitable in case of active breakouts and excess sebum and Glycolic acid (AHA) is more suitable for dullness, uneven texture and pigmentation concerns.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I USE GLYCOLIC ACID TONER?
Start with using Glycolic acid toner 2-3 times every week in the evening or PM routine. Note how your skin reacts, regular usage of 3-4 times every week is recommended.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Glycolic acid is a member of the AHA exfoliant family, having a smaller molecular weight gives it the advantage of seeping into the skin faster and providing better absorption. Glycolic acid’s benefits are not limited to just oily skin and clogged pores, the main reason it holds its position as a crowd pleaser is because of its multi-benefit properties, Niacinamide is also one such character in the skincare ingredient industry. It acts as a surface exfoliant which speeds up the process of cell-shedding allowing dead skin cells to be replaced by newer cells which reduces uneven skin texture, clogged pores, helps in pigmentation and even stimulates collagen production. Along with this it also helps get rid of body odor, dandruff and even ingrown hair concerns. Having such a wide range of benefits no wonder it is recommended ever so often. The Deconstruct Exfoliating 7% Glycolic Acid understands that specific need well and is formulated using 7% Glycolic acid and 3% Niacinamide with science backed botanical ingredients and a water based consistency, is the perfect toner your vanity asks for.